It's one of Manchester's most eagerly awaited restaurant openings and this week Skof by Tom Barnes finally opens in the city centre.
Located in the heart of Manchester city centre's NOMA district, the restaurant has taken over part of the terracotta-tiled Hanover building, built as a curtain house by the Co-operative Wholesale Society, and is now home to Barnes' “unpretentious but ambitious” debut dining experience.
The Roux Scholar from Barrow-in-Furness has spent years preparing for this moment, working with some of the world's best chefs. For over a decade, he honed his skills in Simon Rogan's renowned restaurants, most notably as head chef at Rogan & Co when it received a Michelin star, and as head chef at the prestigious L'Enclume when it took home a third star.
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His culinary journey, however, began much earlier. At 18, he began working at the two-Michelin-starred Vineyard in Stockcross under Head Chef John Campbell. He then gained further experience as part of the brigade in prestigious restaurants such as The Square under Phil Howard and Geranium in Copenhagen under the renowned Rasmus Kofoed.
The Hanover Building in Manchester (Image: Cristian Barnett)
A key aim of the chef's Manchester restaurant, first announced in November, is to break down some of the preconceptions surrounding fine dining by offering guests an element of “surprise and delight”. From the design to the delivery of the menus using locally sourced ingredients, every detail has been carefully considered in this regard.
And as the team at Skof says: “There are no conventions, no dress code – just great food and a great atmosphere in a relaxed and beautiful setting, just like the city we have chosen to call home.”
Designed by London-based studio Blacksheep, Skof's interior is influenced by many things. While the historic building provides the industrial backdrop, the space, bathed in natural light, also references the chef's childhood in Cumbria.
Chef Tom Barnes in his new restaurant Skof in Manchester (Image: Cristian Barnett)
Entering the restaurant from Hanover Street, you'll immediately notice the open kitchen where the chef is busy preparing food. The dining area, with its industrial-style brick and cream tiles, is softened by warm lighting, dried flowers and a natural colour palette of calming greens and lush browns.
Guests can see the kitchen from anywhere in the house, whether sitting on the curved banquettes with large windows or in the middle of the room looking out. Guests are also given the opportunity to sit at the kitchen counter and watch the action as part of the dining experience.
As Tom explained to the Manchester Evening News earlier this year, the name Skof was also carefully considered. “It's actually a very Nordic word,” he revealed.
The interior design at Skof references Manchester's industrial heritage and the chef's childhood in the Lake District(Image: Cristian Barnett)
“That was the kind of thing my dad used to say when I was younger or complain: 'Just leave it alone,' but it's also Edwardian slang for food.”
Skof offers a range of tasting menus, from the £50 four-course lunch menu, to the £120 12-course menu and the slightly longer £165 15-course tasting menu.
All are guided by seasonality, region and the best possible produce, but it's the team's skill, precision and care that sets them apart. Tom and the team have worked with small suppliers such as Cinderwood Market Garden and Lake District Farmers to get the produce onto people's plates.
Broth of grilled onions with Jersey Royals cooked in aromatics and pickled garlic, served at Skof in Manchester (Image: Cristian Barnett)
“The biggest inspiration is the ingredients and what we can get locally,” added Tom. We will also be working with Simon's farm as he kindly allows me to use produce from there, as well as with suppliers and producers from the North West.”
As a taster of what's to come, guests booking a table at Skof in the coming weeks can look forward to dishes such as Dexter beef bavette with pickled artichoke, black pepper and grilled broccoli; Orkney scallops with spring vegetables, fried oysters and seaweed; and roasted Sladesdown duck with fig leaf, ibis celeriac and a mini loaf of wholemeal bread filled with an element of surprise.
On the sweeter side, there's a refreshing amazake sorbet with milk oolong tea; Our Farm strawberries with jasmine cream, rose geranium and caramelised white chocolate; and Manchester honey ice cream with floral herbs, chamomile sponge and carbonated milk. As a special tribute to Tom's father, tiramisu also features on the menus.
Roast Sladesdown duck with fig leaf, ibis celeriac and a mini loaf of wholemeal bread (Image: Cristian Barnett)
The drinks selection has also been carefully selected. There are wine pairings. Tom is not a big drinker, so care has been taken to ensure that there is a non-alcoholic and mixed wine pairing. Guests can also try Sidney, a special beer brewed in collaboration with the Track Brewery, which is a light and refreshing start to the meal.
The head chef, his brigade and the entire Skof team have been working non-stop behind the scenes to bring the exciting restaurant concept to life. This has meant many late nights, late shifts and trial runs, but no doubt it will be an exciting experience over the next 12 months as prestigious restaurant guides and award ceremonies finalise and review the new additions for next year.
(Image: Cristian Barnett)
“I want to make the best food I can and I've had some of the best training and worked with some incredible chefs in the world,” Tom reflected. “I'm going to bring all that to Skof to create something really special.”
Skof will open in Manchester on Wednesday 29 May. The restaurant is located at 3 Hanover St, Federation St, Manchester M4 4BF and reservations can be made via the restaurant's website.
